Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
