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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.